As a finalist at Cambridge, I always try and find a project or trip to look forward to during the busy term. These tend to keep me relatively sane and remind me that a world exists outside the confines of lectures and supervision essays. This term’s challenge was to ride the entire length of CrossCountry’s 08:20 Aberdeen to Penzance service.
It is the longest timetabled passenger service in the UK, at around 774 miles, departing Aberdeen once per day at 08:20am. Sadly, due to timetable changes on 17th May, the route will be cut short and terminate at Plymouth. This is why I was so eager to ride the route so close to exams. Getting to Aberdeen proved to be the first problem, eased by the fact that I have a cousin in Edinburgh willing to provide a mattress for the night before. I then got up at 04:00 the next morning in order to catch the 05:30 from Edinburgh Waverley to Aberdeen.
The service is delightfully hauled by a Class 43 HST (the Intercity 125). Despite being the first train of the day up to Aberdeen, it still only left an eight minute connection – so no time was wasted as I embarked on the five coach train which I’d call home for the next 13 hours. The train winds down the eastern coast of Scotland, with views of all sorts of cliffs and crags. The section down to Edinburgh has two famous crossings at the Tay [09:33] and the Firth of Forth [10:36]. After Edinburgh [11:08] the route zooms through the Scottish Lowlands with an array of trackside wildflowers before stopping at the border town of Berwick-upon-Tweed [11:49]. Around Newcastle [12:42], there are views of Lindisfarne monastery in the distance [12:10] and Durham Cathedral [12:55] before we leaving the East Coast Mainline in the direction of Leeds [14:18] and Sheffield [15:00]. At this point the train gets packed and we acquire a 10 minute delay around the busy junctions in West Yorkshire.
After skirting around the peaks of Derbyshire and the winding spire of Chesterfield [15:12], we are back on time at Birmingham [16:04], where North-East becomes South-West. The train darts through the plains and valleys of Worcestershire and eventually makes it to Bristol Temple Meads [17:29]. There is a 16 minute timetabled wait here for a complete crew changeover, and many people left the train here, before a fair few got on to make evening trips back to Devon.
After Exeter St Davids [18:43] is the gem of any journey bound for Plymouth and beyond – the Dawlish Sea Wall [18:54]. The route traces the coastline on the River Exe and then the English Channel in an experience I can only describe as awe-inspiring. It is also a view best seen from on the left hand side in the direction of travel, where I was lucky to find a seat at Aberdeen. We then march on the banks of the River Teign, about six and a half hours after crossing the River Tyne at Newcastle. The journey past Plymouth [19:45] into Cornwall will no longer be served by direct trains from Aberdeen after Friday 16 May 2025. This crosses the Tamar (over ten hours after crossing the Tay at Dundee) at the racing speed of 15mph, and thence into the depths of Cornwall. The route then slowly twists around the hills and forests with grand views of the sunset over St Austell [20:38] and Truro Cathedral [20:54]. Finally, the train curves around the coastline with a view of the glimmering lights of Penzance. We finally disembark onto “dry land” at 21:31, just over thirteen hours after we left.
Many of those doing the full route were congratulated by the guard, explaining how to register to get a certificate from CrossCountry. A few cheers at the head of the platform and fellow rail enthusiasts offering to take pictures by the front of the train. Again, I had very little time in Penzance, betting on making the 14 minute connection for the sleeper train. For a fee, I was able to upgrade to one of the sleeper cabins (rather than the seats which my rail pass guarantees for free). It was a very restful night after a long day of travelling, and I was happy to wake up at Paddington for breakfast at 05:30 the next morning. Back home, I am ready to do the work that I said I would do on the train and catching up on some much needed sleep.
